At Wild Orchid, all our custom made suits come with a Full Canvas construction as standard - to ensure the quality and durability of the suit, as well as Bemberg Lining - the highest quality of lining - product of Japan, and Soft Shoulder Pads - to ensure a classic and prominent look!
Full Canvas Suits
“Canvas” refers to what is also known as a “Canvas Interlining”.
The Canvas Interlining is typically made from horsehair.
As the “Interlining” part suggests, a layer of the canvas is sandwiched between the wool fabric you see on the outside, and the lining you see on the inside. The canvas is cut to the jacket’s shape and the wool is hand-stitched to it.
The purpose of the Canvas Interlining is to help give the suit jacket support for its shape. This internal layer is often referred to as a suit’s “structure”. Canvas helps the jacket sit, hang and fit better on your body. This means a well-made suit with a canvas construction will actually feel and look better with age.
Canvas also has the advantage of improving the durability of a jacket by distributing tension from stress points (such as the elbows and shoulders) and helps it cope with the rigors of dry cleaning, as in full canvas suits there’s more canvas to provide the added durability.
Quite simply - a Full Canvas Suit is one of true quality!
Half Canvas Suits
A Half Canvased Suit uses a sewn in canvas piece in the chest and the lapel of the jacket, and is fused on the bottom part of the jacket.
Fused Suits means an interlining that is heat pressed (glued) to the wool of the suit. While it allows for suits to be produced quicker and at a better price point, it also has a stiffness to the chest and if over dry-cleaned, can lead to ‘bubbling’ in the chest area (this is caused when the wool separates from the fusing). It is also less durable over time and loses its flexibility.
Most of the suits that are offered in tailor shops in Hoi An are fully fused suits!